A Lotha Naga woman weaving a Naga traditional shawl at Yikhum village, Wokha District...
Home of Lothas having a total geographical area of 1628 Sq. Km, accounting 9.82% of the total geographical area of the State, Wokha District is situated in the mid Western part of the Nagaland State. The Wokha District is situated in the mid western part of Nagaland State, adjacent to Sibsagar plain of the Assam State. It is bounded by Mokokchung District in the North, Kohima District in the South. Zunheboto District in the East and the State of the Assam in the West, the Wokha District is situated at a latitude of 26° '8' North and a longitude of 94° '18' East.
The first step of weaving in general is to stretch the warp, or longitudinal, yarns, which must be very strong. Nagas still practice the primitive weaving by using primitive tools made out of bamboo or woods and of course, the hands alone, as in making rush mats and baskets.
The Naga shawl and sarongs play a very important for the Naga people as it identifies there true identity, a tradition brought down by their ancestors and forefathers. Each tribe has its own patterns with simple clean lines, stripes, squares and bands being the most traditional design motifs. Naga fabrics retain their original attractive patterns, yet external influences on colour and design are also evident.
The looms used for weaving either shawls, scarves or sarongs are mostly narrow loin looms. To be precise, Naga loom consists of a simple back-strap with a continuous horizontal warp consisting of six sticks serving as the warp beam, lease rod, healed stick, beating sword and extra warp beam. Loin loom products mainly shawls are woven with a rayon weft. The Naga shawl weaving is done mostly with cotton, the staple fibre though some wool is used. The centre of the shawl is woven over with figures of elephants, tigers, mithun, cocks and circles, representing human heads. The fabrics are dyed in indigenous colours.
Traditionally, Manipuri tribal weavers used to weave traditional dress on loin loom to cater to the local demands and requirements only.
Courtesy: wikipedia & http://www.indianetzone.com/1/shawl.htm
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