The recent violence at a shopping centre in Yuen Long has focused attention on the bustling district in Hong Kong’s New Territories, where less than a century ago visitors found little more than a cluster of agricultural villages. Despite rapid urbanisation in the 1980s that modernised Yuen Long’s town centre and raised up a new residential town called Tin Shui Wai, the district’s people cling to their cultural heritage and practise traditional rituals.