A Lotha Naga lady weaving a colourful traditional Lotha sarong in Longsa village, Wokha District...The Naga sarong is very important for the ladies, with a variety of designs and colours. Each tribe has its own patterns with simple clean lines, stripes, squares and bands being the most traditional design motifs. Naga fabrics retain their original attractive patterns, yet external influences on colour and design are also evident.
The looms used for weaving either shawls, scarves or sarongs are mostly narrow loin looms. To be precise, Naga loom consists of a simple back-strap with a continuous horizontal warp consisting of six sticks serving as the warp beam, lease rod, healed stick, beating sword and extra warp beam. Loin loom products mainly shawls are woven with a rayon weft. The Naga shawl weaving is done mostly with cotton, the staple fibre though some wool is used. The centre of the shawl is woven over with figures of elephants, tigers, mithun, cocks and circles, representing human heads. The fabrics are dyed in indigenous colours.
Loin Loom Weaving also referred to as back strap or body tension loom, is a traditional textile weaving common to the tribal womenfolk of northeast India. This art of textile weaving is well known for its elegant designs, unique colour combination and lasting texture. The weaver`s body is fundamental to the loom and weaving is done with no mechanical parts. The loom consists of a continuous warp stretched between two parallel bamboos. The one end is supported to a strong post/door or even trees and the other end is held by a strap worn around the weaver`s lower back to regulate the tension with her body. The loin loom is skilfully used by women to weave cloth which includes the process of winding a warp according to the intended design followed by weaving.
Warps are made on a warping frame using vertical lease sticks that keep each thread in sequence. It is then transferred to the weaver who separates it into two layers with a bamboo shed pole, healds stick, lease stick, and wooden rods. All these integral tools serve different functions. Inexpensive and portable, the loin loom is a remarkable device for constructing rugged fabric for daily and ceremonial use, their connotation derived from rituals, beliefs and tribe identity. Each Naga tribes has a colour and motif code which forms its distinct identity. The cloth structure is warp dominant, and has a ribbed texture and stripes in black and red, or black lines on white dominate. Fabrics are woven in two parts and later stitched in the middle. Weaving in strenuous and labour intensive as the loom has to be rebuilt each time. Patterning is done in extra warp and extra weft techniques.
Traditionally, northeast tribal weavers used to weave traditional dress on loin loom to cater to the local demands and requirements only. Today, products woven on this loom have good demand. The traditional dresses, bags and dresses of various designs are exquisite and are always visitor's delight.
The Lotha Naga people is the name of a major Naga tribe inhabiting the Wokha district of Nagaland, India. Renowned for their colourful dances and folk songs, the male members of the Lotha tribe of Nagaland wear shawls indicating their social status. The prestigious social shawl for women is Opvuram and Longpensu for men. The main festivals of the Lothas are Tokhu Emong and Pikhuchak which are celebrated amidst much pomp and splendor. Before the arrival of Christianity, like many Nagas, the Lothas practiced headhunting in the older days. But they have given up this practice.
Scholars have proposed several theories about the migration of the Lothas and the other Naga tribes, based on vocal explanations passed on from one generation to another. They are of the opinion that Lothas either migrated from eastern China or from Manchuria.
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