For many fashion designers, winter is when things get interesting. As far as the job's concerned, it's much more satisfying to work your magic with fabric and silhouettes when the clothes are substantial. Winter can be either classic (Rochas, Laroche, Carven, Saab) or downright delirious (AF Vandervorst, Lespagnard, Van Herpen, Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Ackermann, Rick Owens, Manish Arora).