Giorgio Armani gave the crowd an opening and closing wink during his Emporio Armani show in Milan on Friday (25 SEPT. 2015), with a pink cropped T-shirt featuring a graphic emoticon smiley face with an `'x" for one eye.
Perhaps it was his way of signaling a shift to the fashion crowd.
The designer said in his notes he was done with the `'classic interplay of masculine and feminine" and that the collection was moving toward `'a subtle yet determined form of grace." A lofty ambition, even for the pillar of Milan fashion, who is celebrating 40 years in the business.
There was a lot new on the runway of his line for youthful dressers. The looks were pretty, feminine and light, evoking movement, thanks both to the textiles, featuring sheer organza, a Milan favorite this season, as well as the easy silhouette.
Tops, jackets and skirts were asymmetrically cut, projecting a sense of being on the go, while the new trouser fastened at the calf or ankle with leather straps, cinching up in the shorter version. He also amply deployed pleats and contrasted volumes in the silhouettes: for example, cigarette trousers with a boyfriend-cut duster coat.
The colors were mostly natural pastels - Armani favored a trinity of pink, blue and cinnamon - anchored by urban gray.
Parsimonious with accents, those he did add were inspired by the nature: flower, petal and stem appliques. Many looks were finished with a scarf knotted at the neck.
Armani paired the looks mostly with flats, from transparent ballerinas to open-toe boots.
